The distance between the frames is partly a function of the distance to the initial point of focus increases. The black box here is how exactly the distance between points of focus in each shot is calculated. The camera will then shoot as many frames as you’ve chosen starting with your initial focus point it shifts focus forward by a distance that is "influenced" by the value you chose for “step”. Once you’ve set it up, you have to decide where the point of focus is in the first frame. You can shoot between 1 and 999 frames, and the interval between frames can be between 0 and 10 seconds. You have to configure three settings: number of frames to shoot, "step", and interval between shots. It actually feels like cheating to be honest!įocus stacking is one of the bracket modes on Fuji cameras that have the feature. Needless to say you can do this with any camera. You can generate stacks semi-automatically using the tools Fuji (and other manufacturers) offer, or manually (you adjust the focus yourself for each picture in the stack).
#Helicon focus software software
Combining these images in software will (if they were shot properly) give you an image where everything is in focus. Your goal is to shoot a “stack” for each scene where the scene is the same but the point of focus moves in the image. We use focus stacking to get things in focus that can’t be brought into focus using depth of field alone, or by using tilt. The X-T2 is one of those models (through a firmware update).
In some recent models Fuji has added a “focus bracketing” feature. USING FOCUS BRACKETING IN FUJI TO CREATE A STACK I’m also looking for ways to improve my technique, so all suggestions are welcome.
#Helicon focus software how to
If you’re already an expert in focus stacking, then move along, nothing to see here! However, if you’re not and you wondered how to use Fuji’s Focus Bracket tools, then these notes may be of interest. However, I hit a wall recently and have dived into focus stacking using a Fuji X-T2 and Helicon Focus Pro. I’ve never used it before for various non-reasons (e.g., must get it right in camera with one shot…). Unfortunately, there are many scenarios where adjusting the plane of focus using tilt doesn’t allow you to get everything that should be in focus in focus.įocus stacking is an obvious solution. I use this to “get it right in camera”, and it works much of the time. I have a flexible tilt-shift setup on my Fuji X-T2 that has served me well.
Focus stacking with Fuji and Helicon Focus.
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